If you like the eye-opening effect of using eyeliner the traditional way, chances are you’ll love the extra drama of applying liner to your waterline. “The waterline is the watery area inside the rim of the eye between the lash line and the space between your eyes,” says makeup pro Sandra Saenz. And when applied correctly and according to your eye shape, waterline eyeliner offers a host of benefits.
“Applying eyeliner to your waterline can make your lashes appear fuller, accentuate the natural shape of your eye, or add extra sultriness to a smoky eye look,” makeup artist Sara Wren tells us. It's no wonder that makeup artists have been using this eyeliner makeup technique for decades—and with some help from the pros, you can too.
Meet the expert
- Sandra Saenz is a makeup artist and artistry ambassador for KVD Beauty.
- Sara Wren is a makeup artist and the Milk Makeup global director of artistry.
Keep scrolling for expert-approved tips and tricks for nailing the perfect waterline eyeliner look.
Choose the Right Eyeliner
You don’t necessarily need an eyeliner specifically marketed for your waterline. When selecting a product, “it’s best to look for a super-smooth, waterproof formula,” says Saenz. A pencil eyeliner is ideal since liquid liners have a greater chance of getting into your eye.
“Also, for that same reason, avoid any pencil liners with chunks of glitter when applying them to your waterline,” says Wren. For a gentle glide and a precise application tip to make the process more comfortable, try one of InStyle's 11 favorite eyeliners.
Consider Your Color
Color is both a matter of preference and the effect you want it to have. While you could stick with the same color on the upper and lower lash line for a cohesive look, “when you use a black or brown eyeliner on both waterlines, it could make your eyes appear smaller—though it’s perfect if you’re going for a smoky, sultry look,” says Wren. You could also do a classic black liner on the top waterline and a different color on the bottom.
If you use a white or beige shade on the lower waterline, “it can create the illusion of bigger eyes,” adds Saenz. You could also match the color of your eyes with a statement blue or green to make them pop. “Have fun and experiment with different shades and styles to find the look that works best for you,” says Saenz.
To appear less tired, apply white eyeliner to your waterline since this will work to brighten eyes and make them appear more awake.
Do Prep Work
Since your eyeliner will come in direct contact with your eye, it’s important to sanitize it before each use. “Give your eyeliner pencil a fresh sharpening and spritz it with a bottle of rubbing alcohol to ensure it’s clean. Then, wait for it to dry completely before using,” says Wren.
Curl your lashes to sweep them away from your eyes so you can see your waterline better. To ensure you’re not tugging at your skin, use your ring finger (it has a lighter touch than your pointer finger) to gently lift your upper or lower lid to expose the area beneath your lash line.
Dab away excess moisture along the waterline with a cotton pad or roll a cotton swab (being cautious not to poke your eye), making it easier for your eyeliner to adhere to your waterline and less likely to smear.
Apply Your Eyeliner Carefully
Carefully line your waterline by tracing along the edge of your eye—getting as close as possible to the root of your eyelashes. “I like to start in the middle of the waterline and gently run the pencil back and forth. However, since you’re not creating a new shape and just following your lash line, it doesn’t matter where you start,” says Wren.
Draw the line as thin as the natural line of your eye. “If you apply it too thick, it can make your eyes appear smaller. Unless that’s intentional, keep the line on the thinner side,” adds Saenz. Then, allow the product to set for a minute before layering if needed. “Make sure you’re not blending the eyeliner in," Wren says. "You don’t want to do anything that causes friction and irritates the eye area."
Finally, don't rush the process when you’re working on such a delicate area. “If you find your eyes starting to water or get tired, close your eyes and give yourself a moment, ” says Wren. If you made a mistake, no need to start all over. “Dab a cotton swab in a micellar makeup remover like Milk Makeup Hydro Ungrip Makeup Remover + Cleansing Water to gently remove unwanted lines or smudges,” says Wren.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to use eyeliner on your waterline?
Yes, as long as the product is clean and free of any sharp edges to avoid any infection and injury to the eye.
What eye shapes look best with waterline eyeliner?
Any eye shape can wear waterline eyeliner. But depending on the color(s) and style, you may find waterline eyeliner more or less flattering. In general, darker colors on your lower waterline will make the eye appear smaller whereas lighter colors will make it appear bigger.
Learn More:Eye Shapes and How to Apply Makeup for Each, According to MUAs
Should I apply eyeshadow or eyeliner first?
“If you’re using eyeshadow, you can apply it as a first step since it doesn’t overlap with the waterline. However, to make sure you’re not smearing your shadow, it’s best to waterline first,” says Wren. Then, apply mascara to top off your look.